Calculate the right clearance for 3D printed assemblies. Press fit, sliding fit, and clearance values for FDM, SLA, and SLS printers.
Parts slide freely without wobble. Smooth linear motion with minimal play.
Examples: Drawer rail, piston in cylinder, sliding lid, linear guide
Slide toward "Tight" for well-calibrated printers, or toward "Generous" if you want more room for error.
| Fit Type | FDM | SLA/DLP | SLS | |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Press Fit (Interference) | -0.1 to +0.1 mm | -0.1 to +0 mm | +0.05 to +0.15 mm | |
| Transition Fit | +0.1 to +0.2 mm | +0.05 to +0.15 mm | +0.15 to +0.25 mm | |
| Sliding Fit | +0.3 to +0.5 mm | +0.1 to +0.2 mm | +0.25 to +0.4 mm | |
| Clearance Fit | +0.5 to +0.8 mm | +0.2 to +0.3 mm | +0.4 to +0.6 mm | |
| Loose Fit | +0.7 to +1 mm | +0.3 to +0.5 mm | +0.6 to +1 mm |
Values are clearance on diameter in millimeters. Positive means the hole is larger than the shaft (gap). Negative means interference (hole is smaller). Sources: AON3D engineering fits guide, Formlabs SLA/SLS design guides, Sinterit tolerance docs, Maker's Muse clearance gauge tests, Prusa and Bambu community data.
A well-calibrated FDM printer holds about ±0.2 mm in XY and ±0.1-0.2 mm in Z. SLA/DLP achieves ±0.1-0.15 mm, and SLS lands around ±0.3 mm. But several things push those numbers around.
The values in this calculator are good starting points, but every printer is a little different. Here is how I find my exact numbers for a given material.
Repeat this whenever you change materials or make mechanical changes to your printer (new nozzle, belt retensioning, firmware update). The numbers drift.
Slice just the joint area and print it as a small test piece. This takes 10-20 minutes and tells you if your clearance is right before you commit to a multi-hour print. Most slicers let you cut the STL to isolate a section.
The first layer gets squished into the bed and spreads wider than the rest of the print. This makes holes tighter near the bottom. If a pin fits most of the way but binds at the base, that is elephant's foot. Fix it in your slicer's first-layer settings or add a small chamfer to the hole entrance.
A hole printed vertically (along Z) is round. A hole printed horizontally has a flat top from the overhang and stair-stepping on the sides. If your fit requires a round hole, orient the part so the bore faces up. Otherwise, add extra clearance for horizontal holes.
A light pass with a drill bit, reamer, or rolled-up sandpaper opens up a tight hole without reprinting. For shafts, fine sandpaper (400+ grit) brings the diameter down by a few hundredths. This is often faster than iterating on clearance values.
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