ContentsSpread 17 of 22

Preview: this cheatsheet is still in development and the content hasn't been independently verified.

More you can ask for29 / 36

Colour and textures

Surface texture is organic only. Colour works on both: a sculpted mesh takes textures or colour segments, a parametric part takes one tag per part.

Textured organic shapes

"A dragon with scales." "An elder tree with bark." The surface detail is baked into the mesh. Comes out as a coloured 3D file, ready to view or display.

Colour segmentation

"Colour the dragon's wings red, body green and yellow." Sculpted and imported meshes only. Comes out as a separate piece per colour, ready for a printer that changes colours automatically.

Colour on parametric parts

No surface texture, but every part carries its own colour tag. Handy for reading an assembly at a glance, and slicers put each colour on its own filament.

More you can ask for30 / 36

Parameters and adjustable models

Parameters make a finished model adjustable: nudge a size or toggle a feature in place, with no full regeneration, so changes are faster and cheaper. Ask for the ones you want and GrandpaCAD proposes the rest. Worth adding whenever you'll remake a part at new sizes.

Sliders for dimensions

"Make the wall thickness a slider from 1 to 5 mm, starting at 2." Use for any number with a range.

Text for labels

"Let me type the name for the engraving." A single line of text: keychains, signs, name tags.

Text box for paragraphs

"Let me write a few lines on the back." A bigger box for several lines: dedications, addresses, longer labels.

Switches for features

"Give me a checkbox to add a lid." Turn a hole pattern, a lid, or a logo on and off. No regeneration needed.

Dropdowns for choices

"Make the shape a dropdown: cube, sphere, or cylinder." Use when the answer is one of a fixed set.

Groups as section headings

"Put size settings under a Dimensions group and decoration under Style." Keeps long parameter lists tidy.

More you can ask for29 / 36

Colour and textures

Surface texture is organic only. Colour works on both: a sculpted mesh takes textures or colour segments, a parametric part takes one tag per part.

Textured organic shapes

"A dragon with scales." "An elder tree with bark." The surface detail is baked into the mesh. Comes out as a coloured 3D file, ready to view or display.

Colour segmentation

"Colour the dragon's wings red, body green and yellow." Sculpted and imported meshes only. Comes out as a separate piece per colour, ready for a printer that changes colours automatically.

Colour on parametric parts

No surface texture, but every part carries its own colour tag. Handy for reading an assembly at a glance, and slicers put each colour on its own filament.

PrevSpread 17 of 22Next

A printed copy of the GrandpaCAD cheatsheet booklet on a desk.

Symbolic image

First print run

Get the booklet on your desk.

36 printed pages of the AI CAD vocabulary you actually need. Bound, ready to flip through next to your keyboard.

One email when it ships. No spam, ever.

GrandpaCADEnglish

A pocket reference

The 3D‑Print
Phrasebook

Plain words for asking AI to build the parts you want, the right way on the first try.

Preface

Why a phrasebook?

Every craft has its words. Tell a carpenter rabbet and they know the cut, the tool, and the fit before you finish the sentence. The right word does the explaining for you.

AI is the same. Ask for "a thingy with a hole" and you get a shrug in 3D. Ask for "an M3 counterbore on a 5 mm wall" and you get a part. This little book is the words.

The conversationpages 2–6

How a session flows: describe, look, correct.

The vocabularypages 8–11

Shapes and operations: the moves every model is made of.

Naming real partspages 13–25

Features, holes, fits, and the hardware to design around.

More you can ask forpages 27–30

Images, color, and models that adjust themselves.

From model to partpages 32–36

Filament, export, slicing, printing.

How to read a page

"Quoted text" is language you can use word for word.
Numbered dots on a picture match the parts list beside it.
A QR square opens the matching page online. Point your phone camera at it.

For Grandpa Franc, who built me things.

Contents

What's inside

Chapter 1The conversation01

Chapter 2The vocabulary07

Chapter 3Naming real parts12

Chapter 4More you can ask for26

Chapter 5From model to part31

Chapter01 / 36

Chapter 1

The conversation

You describe, GrandpaCAD builds, you look and correct. This chapter is the rhythm of a working session.

The conversation02 / 36

Your first part: a wall hook

One part, start to finish. This is the whole loop.

1. Say what it is and how big it should be

"A wall hook for the workshop. Base plate 60 × 25 × 4 mm, one hook in the middle." Size and purpose are enough to start. You don't need every detail.

2. Look

The model appears. Check how the parts fit together, the proportions, and the details.

3. Correct one thing at a time

"Add two countersunk holes for M4 screws, 40 mm apart." One correction per message; the rest stays as it was.

4. Done when it looks right

Download it. Printing is covered in chapter 5.

The conversation03 / 36

Multi-step builds

Complex parts come out cleaner when you give the AI a plan, not a paragraph.

Outline the steps

"First the base, then the walls, then four mounting bosses." Order is information.

Name each part

Named parts give you something to mention when you iterate.

Start with the base first

Get the silhouette right before adding details. Features attach to a stable foundation.

Add details last

Fillets, chamfers. Cheap to add and cheap to take away.

The conversation04 / 36

Dimensions and constraints

Numbers without context are guesses. Pin them down up front.

Mind printability

Walls should be at least 1.2 mm, or they crack. Short bridges print cleanly; past about 10 mm they start to sag. Surfaces leaning up to 45° from vertical print without supports.

Cite standards

"M5 cap screw", "M5 countersunk", "608 bearing". The standard name already carries every dimension, so you don't have to spell them out.

Constrain the envelope

"Fits a 256 × 256 mm bed." A stated build plate stops the model from drifting to absurd sizes.

The conversation05 / 36

References and positioning

Where something sits is half the description. Anchor every part to something concrete.

Anchor to a face or edge

"Centred on the top face" is unambiguous. "Near the top" is not.

Reference planes

"Mirror across the centre" gives the model a fixed point to anchor every measurement to.

Mating surfaces

Name which face touches what. "The lid sits on the rim of the box, not inside it."

The conversation06 / 36

Iteration and corrections

The first generation is rarely the final one. Good fixes are specific and surgical.

Describe the symptom, not the fix

"The screws stick out 1mm" tells the model what to solve. Let the AI find the right way to fix it.

Mention one named part

"Make the lid 2mm thicker" lands. "Make it sturdier" wanders.

Give the exact change

"Change wall thickness from 1 to 5mm" leaves no room for interpretation.

Say what to keep

"Keep the hole pattern as is" prevents a full redesign on every iteration.

Try a different approach

When the AI keeps repeating the same mistake, ask it to take a completely different approach. That makes it start fresh.

Chapter07 / 36

Chapter 2

The vocabulary

The basic shapes and operations of a parametric part. You build even the most complex model by using these words in the right order.

The vocabulary08 / 36

Primitives

The starting shapes for almost any design. Every complex part begins as one or two of these.

Cube / Box

A six-sided block. Width, depth, height in millimetres.

Sphere

A ball. Specify radius or diameter, not both.

Cylinder

A tube or rod. Say tube if you want it hollow.

Cone

Tapers from a circle to a point. Say truncated to end it in a smaller circle instead of a point.

Torus

A donut. Give the ring radius and the tube radius.

Wedge

A triangular prism. Ramps, brackets, and gussets start here.

Pyramid

Tapers from a polygon to a point. Square base by default, but it can have any number of sides.

Polyhedron

A custom mesh from points and faces. Last resort when nothing else fits.

The vocabulary09 / 36

Transformations

How to move, turn, and reshape something that already exists. Order matters: rotate then move is not the same as move then rotate.

Translate / Move

Move along X (left/right), Y (front/back), or Z (up/down).

Rotate

Spin around an axis you name, e.g. "rotate around X". Give the angle in degrees.

Scale

Resize it, either evenly in all directions or along a single axis. Along one axis only, a sphere becomes a stretched ellipsoid.

Mirror

Reflect across a plane. Good for symmetric parts.

Linear array

Duplicate in a straight line. Give the count and the spacing.

Circular array

Duplicate around an axis. Give the count, plus a full sweep angle or a radius and spacing.

Offset

Grow or shrink a shape outward by a fixed distance. Inflates or deflates a profile in place.

Align / Anchor

Snap one face, edge, or corner to another. "Align the lid flush with the rim of the box."

The vocabulary10 / 36

Boolean operations

Combine simple shapes to make complex ones. Most parametric models are booleans all the way down.

Union

Fuse two shapes together. They become one new part.

Difference

Subtract one part from another. The way you make holes and cutouts.

Intersection

Keep only the overlapping volume. Useful for trimming to a bounding shape.

Hull

Wrap a tight "skin" around a set of shapes.

The vocabulary11 / 36

Edge and face features

Detail operations. These are what make a part look intentional instead of blocky.

Chamfer

A flat cut on an edge, usually 45°. Eases insertion and breaks sharp corners.

Fillet

A rounded edge. Stronger than a sharp corner, friendlier to touch.

Shell

Hollow a solid, leaving walls of a given thickness.

Extrude

Pull a 2D profile into 3D. The fastest path from sketch to volume.

Revolve

Spin a 2D profile around an axis. Bottles, knobs, and vases come from here.

Loft

Blend between two or more profiles. Smoothly changes cross-section.

Sweep

Drag a profile along a path. Pipes, handles, and grooves.

Draft / Taper

Slant a face by a few degrees. Helps prints release from supports.

Chapter12 / 36

Chapter 3

Naming real parts

How shapes turn into something printable: features, mating geometry, and the hardware your design has to fit around.

Naming real parts13 / 36

Functional features

Named shapes you add to a part to make it work: mounting, stiffness, sealing, or grip.

Boss

Cylindrical protrusion with a hole, usually for a screw or heat-set insert. The "where parts bolt together" feature.

Rib

A thin reinforcing fin running along a surface. Stops a flat plate from flexing without doubling the wall thickness.

Pocket

Rectangular cavity in a solid. Cable channels, captive nuts, lightening holes.

Lip / Flange

An edge that overhangs the wall below. The rim on a container, the mounting plate on a motor.

Gusset

Triangular brace between two perpendicular surfaces. Stiffens a wall without much material.

Standoff

Threaded pillar that holds something at a distance. Hex outside, M3 inside is most common.

Spacer

Unthreaded sleeve that holds two parts a fixed distance apart; a screw passes straight through. Use it when you need an even gap between two parts.

Knurl

Textured grip pattern on a cylindrical surface. Thumb screws and adjustment knobs use it so fingers don't slip.

Naming real parts14 / 36

Text and labels on parts

Five ways to put a name, number, or icon on a printed part. Which one you pick comes down to two things: how deep the letters go and whether you need a second colour.

Raised text (embossed)

Letters rise ~1mm above the surface. Cleanest to print and easiest to read. The default when one colour is fine.

Sunken text (engraved / debossed)

Letters cut ~1mm into the surface. Robust against wear and scuffing, the go-to for serial numbers and stamped marks.

Flush text (multi-material inlay)

Pocket refilled with a second filament at the exact same height. Needs a printer that changes colours automatically, or you swap the filament by hand. Reads like a printed sticker.

Through-text (stencil / cutout)

Letters cut all the way through the plate. Perfect for signage that lets light through. Closed loops like "O" or "A" need a bridge or they fall out.

Segmented inlay (two-part assembly)

Print a plate with a text-shaped pocket and the letters as a separate piece. Glue them in a contrasting colour. Single-extruder friendly.

Naming real parts15 / 36

Holes

Not all holes are equal. The right name avoids a redesign cycle later.

Anatomy of a counterbore

1Mating face
2Counterbore
3Shoulder
4Pilot hole

Naming the layers makes the prompt unambiguous: "M3 clearance, 6mm counterbore, 3mm deep".

Through hole

Goes all the way through the part.

Blind hole

Stops at a depth. Say "blind, 8mm deep".

Countersunk hole

Cone-shaped recess so a flat-head screw sits flush. The chamfer angle matches the screw head (usually 90°).

Counterbored hole

Cylindrical recess so a socket-head cap drops below the surface. Call the diameter and depth.

Spotface

Shallow counterbore that flattens a rough surface for a washer or bolt head to seat.

Clearance hole

Sized so a screw passes freely without engaging threads. Typically 0.2–0.5mm wider than nominal.

Pilot hole

Undersized hole for a self-tapping screw to cut threads into. Slightly smaller than the screw's nominal diameter.

Threaded hole

Has internal threads. Call out the size (e.g. M6). Which sizes are worth printing is on the Fasteners page.

Slot

An elongated hole with rounded ends. Length and width, not just diameter.

Naming real parts16 / 36

Fits and clearances

How tight or loose two parts go together. Values are clearance on diameter for an average filament printer; halve them if you apply the gap to each side.

Press fit (interference)

Shaft is slightly bigger than the hole; needs a press or a mallet. Permanent: bearings, dowel pins. On a filament printer, make the shaft 0.05 to 0.15 mm bigger than the hole. Add a chamfered lead-in so the shaft starts straight.

Transition fit

Assembles with light hand pressure (snug, but removable). Battery doors, sensor mounts, removable caps. FDM: +0.1 to +0.2 mm on diameter.

Sliding fit

Slides without wobble. Drawer rails, pistons, sliding lids. FDM: +0.3 to +0.5 mm on diameter (≈ 0.15–0.25 mm per side).

Clearance fit

Rotates or moves with a visible gap. Hinge pins, axles, bolt clearance holes. FDM: +0.5 to +0.8 mm on diameter.

Loose fit

Easy assembly with room to spare. Cable pass-throughs, decorative covers, snap-on caps. FDM: +0.7 to +1.0 mm on diameter.

Calculator with the latest numbers

Scan for the online tolerance & fit calculator. Values for common printer types, scaled to your part's size.

Naming real parts17 / 36

Fasteners

Screws and bolts you'll actually use on a printed project. Naming the head saves the redesign.

Anatomy of a bolt

1Head
2Shank (unthreaded)
3Threads
4Tip / Point

Pointing at the right part of the bolt tells the model which hardware to clear room for.

Cap screw (hex socket)

ISO 4762 / DIN 912. The "M3×8" default in most printed projects.

Button head

ISO 7380. Lower profile than cap, same hex socket.

Countersunk (flat head)

ISO 10642 / DIN 7991. Sits flush in a chamfered hole.

Set screw / Grub

Headless, threaded full length. Holds shafts to pulleys.

Thumb screw

Knurled head, tightened by hand. Good for tool-free assembly.

Printed threads

M2–M3 come out as ridges or blobs, so don't use them. M4–M5 hold light loads; M6 and up are reliable. Very large threads work for clamps and vises. Print the screw and nut standing up.

Naming real parts18 / 36

Nuts and threaded inserts

How you get a thread into printed plastic. Get the technique right and the screw holds for years.

Hex nut

DIN 934 / ISO 4032. The default unless you say square or T-nut.

Square nut

Captive in a square pocket. Good when the back is unreachable.

T-nut (extrusion)

Drops into 2020 / 3030 aluminium extrusion slots.

Heat-set brass insert

Soldering iron melts it into a printed boss. Strongest option for repeated screw use.

Press-fit insert

Pressed in cold. Knurled outside grips the plastic.

Captive nut pocket

A hex pocket printed into the part. Drop a standard nut in, screw from the other side.

Wing nut

Tightened by hand. Good for parts that get opened often.

Thread & tap calculator

Scan for tap drill, clearance hole, and heat-set pilot sizes from M2 to M16, plus head dimensions for socket caps.

Naming real parts19 / 36

Joints for 3D printing

How printed parts attach to each other. These hold up without glue when the geometry is right.

Anatomy of a snap fit

1Beam (flex arm)
2Hook
3Catch / Undercut
4Lead-in chamfer

Specify each piece and the model gets the bend right. A thicker arm is stiffer; the lead-in makes it easier to click together.

Living hinge

A thin strip (0.3–0.6mm) that flexes thousands of cycles. Orient the layers across the hinge, never along it.

Press fit

Hole slightly smaller than the shaft. About 0.1mm interference for FDM. Add a chamfer to both parts.

Tab and slot

A tab on one part drops into a slot on another. Cleanest joint for flat panels. Lock with glue or a screw.

Dovetail

Trapezoidal profile that slides together. Self-aligning and captures one axis. Use 7–10° flare.

Ball and socket

Spherical ball in a partial socket. Print the socket about 0.3mm larger so the ball rotates freely.

Bayonet lock

L-shaped slot. Push in, twist 90° to lock. The standard lid joint when threads are overkill.

Naming real parts20 / 36

Printable connectors

Ready-made joins that snap, slide, or twist printed parts together, no separate hardware needed.

Knuckle hinge

Two leaves with alternating fingers (knuckles) that wrap around a steel pin. Print both leaves flat, slide a 1.75mm filament offcut through as the pin. 4mm knuckles print cleanly without supports.

Snap pin & socket

A pin that pushes into a socket and clicks in place. The pin tip is split into four flexible petals that squeeze together on entry, then spring back behind a rim inside the socket. No screws needed.

Hirth coupling

Two discs with matching radial teeth that lock together when clamped. Tighten a bolt through the centre; loosen, turn to a new angle, and re-tighten; it locks in fixed steps (15°, 30°). Used for adjustable arms and joints.

Snap latch

Two printed parts that lock with a slide and a click. A barbed tongue slides into a channel where a living spring snaps over it and holds. Press the spring to release. Prints in place, no screws, good for lids and covers.

Corner bracket

90° L-bracket with mounting holes on both faces. Joins two panels at a right angle. Add a triangular gusset web on the inside if the load reaches kilograms.

Naming real parts21 / 36

Motion and 3D printer hardware

Off-the-shelf parts in nearly every printer build, a few euros each from any printer or hardware shop. Name the standard and the model is built to fit it exactly.

608 bearing

Skateboard bearing, 8 × 22 × 7mm. Spinners, idlers, friction-fit pulleys.

625 / 624 bearings

5 × 16 × 5 and 4 × 13 × 5. The small idlers you'll see in printer kits.

Linear bearing (LM8UU)

Recirculating ball bearing on an 8mm smooth rod. The standard linear-motion part.

Smooth rod

Chromed steel shaft, usually 8mm. Linear bearings glide on it.

NEMA 17 stepper motor

42.3mm face, 5mm shaft. Mounting holes on a 31mm square pattern. Say "NEMA 17 mount" and the holes line up.

2020 aluminium extrusion

20 × 20mm cross-section with a 6mm T-slot. The skeleton of most printer frames.

Linear rail (MGN12)

12mm rail with an MGN12H carriage. Stiffer and quieter than smooth-rod motion.

Bed-levelling spring

Compression spring, 8mm across and 20mm tall. The yellow springs under most common printer beds.

Naming real parts22 / 36

Belts, pulleys, and leadscrews

The parts that turn a motor's spin into straight-line motion, the same belts and screws every printer kit ships with.

Anatomy of a GT2 pulley

1Tooth profile (2mm pitch)
2Flange
3Bore
4Setscrew hole

GT2 timing belt

2mm pitch toothed belt. 6mm wide is standard, 9mm for heavier carriages. Loop length matters; open belt is cut to size.

Toothed idler

Bearing with a GT2-toothed face. Reverses belt direction without the belt slipping on the wheel.

Smooth idler

Flanged bearing with a plain face. Used where the back of the belt rides the wheel.

Belt clamp / tensioner

Printed block with a serrated slot that grips a GT2 belt by its teeth. Print the slot teeth at the same 2mm pitch as the belt, pinch with two M3 screws.

T8 leadscrew

Threaded rod built to drive a nut up and down. It has a coarse thread that moves 8mm per full turn, so it's for moving things, not fastening.

T8 brass nut

The mating nut for a T8 leadscrew. Bolts to a printed carriage on a 22mm flange pattern and turns leadscrew rotation into carriage motion. Anti-backlash variant has a sprung second nut for play-free positioning.

Flexible shaft coupler

Connects a stepper motor to a Z-axis leadscrew, one shaft in each end. The spiral-cut slots let it bend a little, so a motor that sits slightly off-line from the screw won't bind or add wobble to the print.

Naming real parts23 / 36

Electronics and panel mounts

Printing a bracket or enclosure for one of these is one of the most common reasons to design a part at all, whether you're upgrading your own printer or boxing up an electronics project. Each board has a fixed hole pattern the AI can match by name.

PCB standoff / boss

Printed pillar with an M3 heat-set or self-tap hole. State height, hole pattern, and whether the head sinks into a counterbore.

Raspberry Pi 4 mount

58 × 49mm M2.5 hole pattern. Say "Pi 4 mount" or "Pi 3 mount" (the patterns differ).

Arduino Mega / Ramps mount

M3 holes on the Arduino Mega footprint. Carries Ramps 1.4 control boards used in older printer builds.

32-bit board mount

M3 hole patterns for BTT SKR Mini E3 or MKS Gen-L. Say which board and version you have; the mounting holes moved between versions.

40mm axial fan

40 × 40 × 10mm. M3 holes on a 32mm square pattern. The hot-end cooling default.

5015 radial blower

50 × 50 × 15mm centrifugal fan. Two M3 mounts and a rectangular outlet. The part-cooling default.

Microswitch (D2F-style)

Omron D2F endstop. 6 × 12.8mm body, two M2 holes 9.5mm apart. Used for X / Y / Z homing.

12864 graphic LCD

128 × 64 printer display with rotary encoder. Standard panel cut-out is roughly 150 × 75mm.

Naming real parts24 / 36

Gridfinity bins

The most popular way to organise a drawer or workbench. Snap-in bins sit on a gridded baseplate in fixed 42mm squares, so everything lines up and stays put. Thousands of ready-made bins already exist online; ask for the size you need.

Baseplate

Tray with 42mm-pitch recesses that grip the chamfered foot of every bin. Bolt it to a drawer bottom and every bin has a home.

Single bin

The 42 × 42 × 21mm base unit, one square on the grid. Ask for it hollow, or split into compartments inside.

Multi-grid layout

Any rectangular footprint works: 2 × 3, 4 × 1, 5 × 5. Tell the AI how many squares wide and deep, plus the height; the baseplate stays the same.

Partitioned bin

Split the inside into a grid of compartments. Four cells in a 2 × 2 bin sorts a kit of screws and washers.

Drill-bit stand

A row of holes in graduated sizes, one per drill bit, each with room for a printed label. Every bit gets a home instead of rattling in a box.

Tool stand

Bin with circular pockets sized for the tool shanks. Screwdriver bits, end mills, calipers: each one has a slot and won't roll around.

Cylinder rack

Tall bin with deep round holes. Markers, AA batteries, 18650 cells, paint pens stand on end and never roll off the bench.

Naming real parts25 / 36

Sizes that print well

Pick sizes that the printed plastic can actually hold. These are the defaults seasoned makers reach for.

Fasteners: M5 and up

M5 is the smallest size that grips printed plastic reliably. M6 for everyday brackets, M8 / M10 for load-bearing joints. M3 strips out at the first over-tighten, so skip it unless you're using a heat-set insert.

Heat-set inserts: M5 / M6

Brass insert melts into a printed boss and provides the threads. Design the boss at 8.5mm OD for M5, 10mm for M6. Thinner walls split when the insert melts in.

Linear motion: 8mm rod

LM8UU bearings, 8mm chromed rod. The whole ecosystem assumes this size: couplers, brackets, leadscrews all line up.

Bearings: 608 (8 × 22 × 7)

Cheap, plentiful, prints into a 22mm pocket with a 0.2mm interference fit. 624 / 625 work too; below 4mm bore is fragile.

Knuckle hinge: 4mm × 1.75mm

4mm knuckle around a 1.75mm steel pin (offcut of filament works). A common, well-tested size. Smaller knuckles split; bigger waste plastic.

Frame stock: 2020

20 × 20mm aluminium extrusion with a 6mm T-slot. M5 T-nuts drop straight in. 3030 if you need more rigidity.

Belt: GT2 6mm

2mm pitch, 6mm wide. 16T or 20T pulleys on a 5mm shaft. Everything heavier than a print head wants 9mm width.

Snap pin: 7 × 11mm

7mm head, 11mm long total. The push-and-click connector between two printed parts. Replaces a screw on light-duty joints. Below a 5mm head the petals get fragile; above 10mm it's a screw waiting to happen.

Chapter26 / 36

Chapter 4

More you can ask for

The two kinds of model you can ask for, pictures as input, colour and texture, and parts that adjust themselves with a slider.

More you can ask for27 / 36

Parametric parts and organic models

Two kinds of geometry. A parametric part is built from dimensions and stays editable; an organic model is a sculpted mesh. What you ask for decides which.

Parametric parts

"A 40mm tall container with a threaded lid." Dimensions and booleans, exact to the millimetre and still editable. The default unless you ask for something sculpted.

Organic models

"A dog head." "A small dragon." Name a creature or a character and you get a sculpted mesh instead. No primitives, no dimensions to type.

Both in one model

"A wine stopper with a dog head on top." Each half gets built separately, then the two are merged. The parametric half keeps its sliders.

Parameters only on parametric

You can't put sliders on a sculpted shape, only on parametric parts. Change an organic shape by asking again, a parametric one by tuning it in place. Parameters live on page 30.

More you can ask for28 / 36

From image to model

Hand over a picture instead of a paragraph. A dimensioned sketch becomes a parametric part; a photo of a subject becomes an organic model.

Sketch → parametric part

Upload the drawing, and spell out everything you know in words too: dimensions, parts, tolerances. Those become real parameters, still adjustable. Whatever you leave off, it has to guess.

Photo → organic model

Upload a photo of your dog or a figurine, and still say exactly what you want. A photo alone leaves too much open. The mesh reads shape, not scale, so give the size too.

More you can ask for29 / 36

Colour and textures

Surface texture is organic only. Colour works on both: a sculpted mesh takes textures or colour segments, a parametric part takes one tag per part.

Textured organic shapes

"A dragon with scales." "An elder tree with bark." The surface detail is baked into the mesh. Comes out as a coloured 3D file, ready to view or display.

Colour segmentation

"Colour the dragon's wings red, body green and yellow." Sculpted and imported meshes only. Comes out as a separate piece per colour, ready for a printer that changes colours automatically.

Colour on parametric parts

No surface texture, but every part carries its own colour tag. Handy for reading an assembly at a glance, and slicers put each colour on its own filament.

More you can ask for30 / 36

Parameters and adjustable models

Sliders for dimensions

"Make the wall thickness a slider from 1 to 5 mm, starting at 2." Use for any number with a range.

Text for labels

"Let me type the name for the engraving." A single line of text: keychains, signs, name tags.

Text box for paragraphs

"Let me write a few lines on the back." A bigger box for several lines: dedications, addresses, longer labels.

Switches for features

"Give me a checkbox to add a lid." Turn a hole pattern, a lid, or a logo on and off. No regeneration needed.

Dropdowns for choices

"Make the shape a dropdown: cube, sphere, or cylinder." Use when the answer is one of a fixed set.

Groups as section headings

"Put size settings under a Dimensions group and decoration under Style." Keeps long parameter lists tidy.

Chapter31 / 36

Chapter 5

From model to part

Words became a model; now the model becomes plastic. Filament, export, slicing, and the machine doing the melting.

From model to part32 / 36

Filaments and materials

Each filament has its strength. Start with PLA, then choose by what the part must handle.

For…PickPrinting

Everyday parts and prototypesPLAAny printer

Knocks, indoors or outPETGAny printer

Bendy, grippy partsTPUPrint slow

Heat and sunABS / ASAEnclosure

Gears and living hingesNylonHot + dry

Maximum heat and loadPCEnclosure

Stiff, light partsCarbon-fibre blendsHard nozzle

Tricky overhangsDissolving supportsTwo materials

Basic printerA step up

These are the staples. There are loads more (silk, matte, wood-fill, glow-in-the-dark, even metal-filled), but you rarely need them.

Where we buy ours

Azurefilm, a Slovenian shop. Not a sponsor, just one we like.

From model to part33 / 36

Export and printing

The model has to leave the screen. A few habits keep parts printable on the first try.

Pick the right export

3MF preserves units and colour. STL is the lowest common denominator every slicer accepts.

The slicer is next

The exported file opens in a slicer such as PrusaSlicer, Cura, or Bambu Studio. It cuts the model into layers and sends them to the printer. The next pages explain its words.

Print orientation

Flat side down by default. Threads, holes, and engraved text want to face up.

Design to skip supports

Chamfer overhangs to 45° and most prints don't need supports at all.

From model to part34 / 36

Slicer basics

The words the slicer uses. Knowing them lets you describe a part with the print step already in mind.

Layer height

Thickness of each printed slice. 0.2mm is the everyday default; 0.12mm for detail, 0.28mm for speed.

Wall / Perimeter

The shell loops around each layer. Three walls (~1.2mm) is the strength default.

Infill

The honeycomb-like fill inside. 20% is fine for most parts; 80%+ for parts that carry weight.

Top / bottom layers

Solid layers that close the part. Four to five layers stops infill from showing through.

Seam

The vertical line where each layer starts and stops. Hide it on a back corner with "Aligned" or "Random".

From model to part35 / 36

Supports and bed adhesion

What the slicer adds around your part so tricky shapes survive printing, and what each helper costs.

Overhang

A face leaning out from vertical. Above 45° usually needs support; below prints free.

Bridge

Flat span between two supports printed in mid-air. Up to ~10mm prints cleanly.

Support

Scaffolding under overhangs, removed after printing. Tree supports use less material than grid.

Brim

Single-layer skirt fused to the part. Adds bed adhesion for tall or narrow footprints.

Raft

Sacrificial base layers under the part. Heavier than a brim; reach for it on warpy materials.

Skirt

A loose loop around the part, not touching it. Primes the nozzle before the real print starts.

From model to part36 / 36

Hot end and extruder

The parts that melt and push filament. Every printer has them; the names come up when you swap a nozzle, clear a clog, or design an accessory.

Anatomy of a hot end

1Heatsink
2Heatbreak / throat
3Heater block
4Nozzle

Direct drive and Bowden

The extruder is the motor and gears that push filament. On the print head it is direct drive (most modern printers, including the Bambu Lab A1). On the frame, pushing through a long tube, it is Bowden.

V6-style hot end

The classic DIY form factor: M6 nozzle thread and a grooved neck on the heatsink. Printed mounts clamp the 12 mm groove instead of threading into the hot end.

Nozzle

Brass or hardened steel tip, sized by orifice. 0.4mm is the everyday default; 0.6 / 0.8 for speed, 0.25 for detail.

Push-fit coupler

M6 fitting that grips a 4 mm PTFE tube; press the collar to release it. Say "push-fit M6". Handy in your own designs too, such as a filament dry box.

PTFE / Bowden tube

4 mm OD, 2 mm ID Teflon tube. On Bowden printers it connects extruder to hot end; on direct drive it still guides filament from the spool to the print head.

Index1–L

Every term, alphabetically

1. Say what it is and how big it should be2

12864 graphic LCD23

2. Look2

2020 aluminium extrusion21

3. Correct one thing at a time2

32-bit board mount23

4. Done when it looks right2

40mm axial fan23

5015 radial blower23

608 bearing21

625 / 624 bearings21

Add details last3

Align / Anchor9

Anatomy of a bolt17

Anatomy of a counterbore15

Anatomy of a GT2 pulley22

Anatomy of a hot end36

Anatomy of a snap fit19

Anchor to a face or edge5

Arduino Mega / Ramps mount23

Ball and socket19

Baseplate24

Bayonet lock19

Bearings: 608 (8 × 22 × 7)25

Bed-levelling spring21

Belt clamp / tensioner22

Belt: GT2 6mm25

Blind hole15

Boss13

Both in one model27

Bridge35

Brim35

Button head17

Calculator with the latest numbers16

Cap screw (hex socket)17

Captive nut pocket18

Chamfer11

Circular array9

Cite standards4

Clearance fit16

Clearance hole15

Colour on parametric parts29

Colour segmentation29

Cone8

Constrain the envelope4

Corner bracket20

Counterbored hole15

Countersunk (flat head)17

Countersunk hole15

Cube / Box8

Cylinder8

Cylinder rack24

Describe the symptom, not the fix6

Design to skip supports33

Difference10

Direct drive and Bowden36

Dovetail19

Draft / Taper11

Drill-bit stand24

Dropdowns for choices30

Extrude11

Fasteners: M5 and up25

Fillet11

Flexible shaft coupler22

Flush text (multi-material inlay)14

Frame stock: 202025

Give the exact change6

Groups as section headings30

GT2 timing belt22

Gusset13

Heat-set brass insert18

Heat-set inserts: M5 / M625

Hex nut18

Hirth coupling20

Hull10

Infill34

Intersection10

Knuckle hinge20

Knuckle hinge: 4mm × 1.75mm25

Knurl13

Layer height34

Linear array9

Linear bearing (LM8UU)21

Linear motion: 8mm rod25

Linear rail (MGN12)21

Lip / Flange13

Living hinge19

Loft11

Loose fit16

IndexM–W

Every term, alphabetically

Mating surfaces5

Mention one named part6

Microswitch (D2F-style)23

Mind printability4

Mirror9

Multi-grid layout24

Name each part3

NEMA 17 stepper motor21

Nozzle36

Offset9

Organic models27

Outline the steps3

Overhang35

Parameters only on parametric27

Parametric parts27

Partitioned bin24

PCB standoff / boss23

Photo → organic model28

Pick the right export33

Pilot hole15

Pocket13

Polyhedron8

Press fit19

Press fit (interference)16

Press-fit insert18

Print orientation33

Printed threads17

PTFE / Bowden tube36

Push-fit coupler36

Pyramid8

Raft35

Raised text (embossed)14

Raspberry Pi 4 mount23

Reference planes5

Revolve11

Rib13

Rotate9

Say what to keep6

Scale9

Seam34

Segmented inlay (two-part assembly)14

Set screw / Grub17

Shell11

Single bin24

Sketch → parametric part28

Skirt35

Sliders for dimensions30

Sliding fit16

Slot15

Smooth idler22

Smooth rod21

Snap latch20

Snap pin & socket20

Snap pin: 7 × 11mm25

Spacer13

Sphere8

Spotface15

Square nut18

Standoff13

Start with the base first3

Sunken text (engraved / debossed)14

Support35

Sweep11

Switches for features30

T-nut (extrusion)18

T8 brass nut22

T8 leadscrew22

Tab and slot19

Text box for paragraphs30

Text for labels30

Textured organic shapes29

The slicer is next33

Thread & tap calculator18

Threaded hole15

Through hole15

Through-text (stencil / cutout)14

Thumb screw17

Tool stand24

Toothed idler22

Top / bottom layers34

Torus8

Transition fit16

Translate / Move9

Try a different approach6

Union10

V6-style hot end36

Wall / Perimeter34

Wedge8

Wing nut18

Thanks

For Grandpa Franc

When I was a kid he built me things from whatever was in the workshop. A wooden bazooka. A spinning top. A box that opened a particular way. None of it came with instructions. He just made it because I'd asked, or because he had fun doing it.

He's why I like making things. He's why this project exists.

Thank you, Franc.

If this helped

Pass it along to someone just starting out. The vocabulary travels further than the lesson.

Feedback and corrections: grandpacad.com/contact

Now go build something.

The vocabulary in this booklet is what CAD designers use every day. Put it in your prompts and the model gets sharper on the first try.

The cheatsheet is free. The build is yours.

Build it with us atgrandpacad.com

Textured organic shapes

Colour segmentation

Colour on parametric parts

Sliders for dimensions

Text for labels

Text box for paragraphs

Switches for features

Dropdowns for choices

Groups as section headings

Textured organic shapes

Colour segmentation

Colour on parametric parts

Get the booklet on your desk.

The 3D‑PrintPhrasebook

The conversationpages 2–6

The vocabularypages 8–11

Naming real partspages 13–25

More you can ask forpages 27–30

From model to partpages 32–36

How to read a page

The conversation

1. Say what it is and how big it should be

2. Look

3. Correct one thing at a time

4. Done when it looks right

Outline the steps

Name each part

Start with the base first

Add details last

Mind printability

Cite standards

Constrain the envelope

Anchor to a face or edge

Reference planes

Mating surfaces

Describe the symptom, not the fix

Mention one named part

Give the exact change

Say what to keep

Try a different approach

The vocabulary

Cube / Box

Sphere

Cylinder

Cone

Torus

Wedge

Pyramid

Polyhedron

Translate / Move

Rotate

Scale

Mirror

Linear array

Circular array

Offset

Align / Anchor

Union

Difference

Intersection

Hull

Chamfer

Fillet

Shell

Extrude

Revolve

Loft

Sweep

Draft / Taper

Naming real parts

Boss

Rib

Pocket

Lip / Flange

Gusset

Standoff

Spacer

Knurl

Raised text (embossed)

Sunken text (engraved / debossed)

The 3D‑Print
Phrasebook